Communicating through African fashion
Mini portrait of Danish-based Ghanaian designer Francis
Selorm Seshie. Click to enlarge the images.
The Nørrebro area of Copenhagen is a vibrant, cultural melting
pot in good and bad. Every big city in Europe has a place like this.
This is where young people of different nationalities meet in smart cafés,
and where families do their shopping or simply come to chat with friends
and by passers. The place is complete with the social problems and conflicts
that come along when a large number of people live closely together.
But a mixed-cultural neighbourhood like these is also a cradle of initiatives
and fresh ideas.
  In
the middle of it all, there is a workshop for a unique talent in fashion
design. This is where the Ghanaian born, Francis Selorm Seshie,
has had his base for the last 12 years. In common with African shops, “Kente
Design” also functions as meeting place. There is always an atmosphere,
with people around eating, chatting or getting a quick haircut. High-life
tunes come out of the old tape recorder next to the computer and sewing
machines.
All a bit unfamiliar for Danish customers when they first open the door, but everyone is very welcome.
Francis has his very own visions of how to make the best of
two worlds work together. Africa meets with the West in his designs,
but also in the many other projects launched from here. Francis Seshie
is not only manufacturing and selling ready-to-wear African dresses of
high quality: “One of my primary aims in establishing this business
was to promote African culture, and to uplift the general image of Africa
in the West. This is not only about selling clothes. I have a story to
tell. I may speak in symbols and hidden messages through the Kente design,
but I trust there is an audience for it and hope to open their eyes.”
 The
ideas of working with fabrics and the desire of becoming a designer grew
in Francis when he went to school in Accra. He started out by supplying
specially made baseball caps for students at schools and universities.
Many of his early clients came from Nigeria, Benin and Senegal. They
were fascinated with what could be done with the materials, and soon
asked for party clothes as well. His early designs were using Keta – wax
print, but he has later chosen to focus entirely on the Kente clothes,
which are unique for Ghana. A deep love and respect for the Ghanaian
roots and traditions has always been a main source of inspiration. Francis
Seshie has success in finding new ideas for modern fashion by looking
back to what history and tradition has to offer. A quick look around,
on the hangers in the shop reveals everything from casual street wear,
bags and t-shirts to daring miniskirts, boots and long evening dresses.
Francis
Seshie is happy working in Denmark, where he has arranged several large
fashion shows during the past years. In 2003 he was rewarded as
the immigrant artist of the year, but the market here is too small, he
complains. The Danes are amazed with the colourful attires, but maybe
still a bit
too shy, when it comes to wearing them. Luckily the Internet has made
it easier to be in touch with the international market and Kente Design
now has customers in London, Paris and the states.
 KENTE
The original Kente material is handmade, woven in silk or cotton, expensive
and exclusive. But Kente is not just clothes –it is a completely
unique part of Ghanaian history and culture. The Asante and Ewe tribes
of Ghana originally used the clothes for religious and ceremonial occasions.
Contrary to western fashion there is often a deeper meaning hidden away
in African designs, whether in terms of clothing or hairstyles. Colours,
patterns and designs have ancient roots and meanings, which Francis is
still using deliberately, when making new creations. They are alternative
sources of history, as they can communicate a direct message or represent
moral values, beliefs, ethics and principles. The styles have names like “family
ties”, “wise old lady” or “unity is strength”.
There is an enormous wealth of meaning, stories and traditions hidden
away inside the patterns. Unfortunately, with the more widespread acceptance
of Kente, the original messages are slowly fading away. Only a few people
know how to read the language of the beautiful Kente colours.
Originally the Kente was reserved for royalty. Later on people didn’t
care much about it, because it was either too expensive, or regarded
as “old fashioned”. But fashion changes. African-Americans
have adopted Kente as a link to their African origin and now because
of that the West African youth have begun picking up on Kente once again.
 CROSS CULTURE
The more philanthropic ideas of Francis Seshie shines through in the organisation he also tries to start from the workshop. Cross Culture International is aimed to be an organisation working for better integration and cultural understanding on a local level in Denmark, but also with international ambitions. It is this group of people meeting in Francis’ shop, who are working to establish an African Culture Centre in Copenhagen. The centre should facilitate help to Africans living in Denmark with information about the educational system and employment market, sports, art and culture. Francis Seshie explains: “We wish to promote a positive picture of Africans, who choose Denmark as their home. We want to inform people of trade possibilities, and show off ideas from another culture. We wish to take an active part in improving our society. Our African youth have to be better integrated, but part of this process is also remembering our own background and informing the Europeans about it. Fashion is also a way of communicating culture”.
© Text and photos: Jacob Crawfurd, March 2004.
All designs by Francis Seshie Selorm. Model: Victoria.
A German translation of this article was published in Africa
Positive, no. 13, 2004.
The english version was published in Coloured
Pictures, issue 02-06, 2004.
 View more
photos of Kente Design
 Visit: www.kentedesign.dk for
more information on designs and projects by Francis Selorm Seshie.
 Cross
culture:
Middle East and Africa meet in Denmark
In 2003 the National Association
of Danish Refugee Friends gave their annual award to the journalist
Fahmy Almajid. Almajid is born in Syria, but has been living and working
in Denmark for more than 30 years and he is a well known contributor
to the debate on integration issues (see www.fahmy.dk).
The award was designed by artist/textile designer Francis Selorm Seshie,
who was presented by the association as artist of the year.
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